Ever notice that some things seem better in concept than in reality? All native Washingtonians raves about the little
Bavarian town of Leavenworth and persists, "You just HAVE to experience the tree
lighting festival during Christmas.” People have visions of taking a scenic train
ride through the woods and landscape while sipping hot cocoa and being
entertained. Then wandering through pastel
frosted storefronts and boutiques filled with quaint souvenirs, memorable artwork, specialty
food and wine to mark the time they
spent oohing and ahhing at the mesmerizing light display like a snow globe frieze.
The ideal way to experience this adventure would be to arrive
in Leavenworth via Amtrak’s earliest no frills train on a Friday and explore
the town at your leisure. On Saturday,
wander through town before the tour buses arrive at 11am, have a leisurely
brunch, nap in your room, swim, take a sauna or spa trip, and find a nice window seat overlooking the square and a good book or
board game and state your spot until 4:30, when the 30-minute light display takes
place culminating in a twinkling forest and town square. Then adjourn to your prearranged room
(reserved a year in advance), for a cozy sleep and meander back home by train.
Our first venture into the experience was to realize that
bus tour is the only way to go unless you plan in March to take the train. Buses leave by 8 am for a 3 hour drive to the
Bavarian berg of Leavenworth. Swag is a
plastic wrapped pastry, a map and program of performers for the day, a 1/2 pint
bottle of water, because there is only one potty on the bus. Unless there is snow and traction tires
required, and traffic, which extends your trip TO the town; but keeps you on
the same return schedule… thus cutting 1.5 hours off your town time. THEN, realize that along with your own charter bus, there
are 150+ other tour buses with double the amount of private vehicles – all
trying to get to the same 5 mile wide town… and parking areas. The quaint stores and restaurants have a
capacity of 50-100 maximum, so lines to ingress and egress take up more of your
excursion time. The "festival special" prices for fine imported European goods – which you can
easily find online… coupled with trying to shop while herded like cattle makes
retail therapy more like shock treatment.
Deciding to feast on some genuine Bavarian wurst, baked
goods, beer or pretzels also brings with it a line time commitment. Finding an indoor espresso stand that not only
served food, but also WARM alcoholic drinks was a godsend – and we hit it just before
it was discovered by the masses sharing a small table with a couple with two service
dogs who were very interested in our sandwiches. Lunch for $33 for 2 seems a bargain when you factor in a
window seat and opportunity to be warm and out of the elements.
It should also be mentioned that even though Santa Claus
makes an appearance, this is not a CHILD-FRIENDLY event. There are places to sled and for snow play, but nowhere indoors to dry out easily. AND public bathrooms are few and far between, with lines. There are very few places to get out of the
weather with children and the only children I saw who were not melting down, uncomfortably
wet and cold were those worn in front packs or stacked like firewood into toboggans
– the middle kids were smiley and waving.
Not the ones on either end keeping the middle one warm. Even the tasting rooms, do not extend their
warmth to children unless babes in arms.
The cruel irony of seeing Santa and Ms. Claus swarmed with a
two block line for a meeting while St. Nicholas wandered the streets virtually
unnoticed was not lost on this observer.
The world culture beyond the Coca Cola icon doesn’t exist for most
children. The advent calendars, pink and
purple candle wreaths and nativity creches are far in the back of most stores
catering to sports fans and trinket searchers.
And the beauty of the artwork in these creations is lost on those
searching for the perfect Disney princess ornament.
The decision to attend with a pal was motivated by a partner
who hates crowds, cold and excessive cost.
The holiday feeling had yet to arrive and I thought just being in the
proximity of seasonal decor might do the trick. While we had a grand old time
in fleeting moments, we devised a better way to enjoy it in the future and
realized that our desire to travel together requires significant
research and more snacks We also realized that if one
invests in resources to keep warm, almost anything is enjoyable. Bucket list checked, rechecked and our next
trip will be richer for the reconnaissance.
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